Featurered Designer Page - Rachel Franzen

Featured Designer

I have a huge amount of respect for the new featured designer Kate Nolan of An Rince Mugain. Kate was one of the first dress designers to respond to my emails when Colleens' of Canberra was first created. Kate is always happy to offer advice and is a great contributor to the Celtic Flame messageboard (www.voy.com/14708/). She is always willing to share her knowledge to new dressmakers and offer advice for all the "how to" questions placed on the board. Thanks Kate for the support you have provided me over the past few years!!!

Did you know that while over 300+ dresses have been made using the designs from Colleens' of Canberra very few donations have been received. If you use these designs please consider making a donation to help keep this website operational.

17/04/06

Thank you Kate for donating these two new striking, modern designs that are sure to stand out on stage.

"Irish dancing has brought a great joy to my life. It has given me the opportunity to travel to places I never would have and meet so many fabulous people along the way. One of the defining moments in my life was traveling to Ireland for the first time. Since I’m a descendant of famine immigrants my journey to Ireland was quite a special event. In that moment I realized how deep one’s roots really are and how appreciative I was for the courage and strength my ancestors had. To leave your homeland under such circumstances was more then I could fathom. How agonizing it must have been for them, facing the unknown, leaving behind their families and friends. Having the honor of being the first one to return is a memory I’ll treasure for ever."

Meet Kate! Busy in her sewing workshop.

How long have you been designing Irish Dance Dresses? I’ve been designing dresses now for over seven years. It seems longer though. I don’t know if that’s a good thing or not!

Do you make dresses too? Yes, I make both school costumes and solo costumes. The creation of these lovely garments is one of my biggest joys in life, besides my children of course. Irish dance costumes are so unique and such a great outlet for one’s creativity to be expressed.

Did you learn Irish dancing as a child? No, in fact I never even knew about it. I discovered Irish Dance when watching Lord of the Dance on PBS. I fell instantly in love with the art form. My three children enjoy Irish dance as well. The youngest age 7 is at the novice level while the two older sons are at the open champion level. The most wonderful moment for me as a parent of dancers was when my sons both qualified and danced at the World Championships. What a special gift that was for me.

What made you first decide to design and make dresses? One day my son’s TCRG asked me if I could alter a dress for one of her students. I had never worked on an ID costume before and was actually quite nervous. I was afraid that once I got it apart I would not be able to put it together again. The dancer needed the dress for the Oireachtas so it was important for me to do it correctly. Once I got to work I realized I was more then capable and didn’t need to be so afraid. That was it, I got the bug and next thing I knew I was doing alterations which then quickly led to making my own dresses. My first efforts were constructed well enough I just had to work at developing my design style. This is the part that takes some time to mature. Believe it or not, I’m still not satisfied and don’t think I’ve arrived yet.

The Singer 20UX143 - Kate's first machine

What sort of sewing machines do you have? What is your favourite? I have several machines, a singer 20UX143, overlocker, singer 301, and of course my commercial embroidery machine. My favorite is my 301, it has been with me since the beginning and I’ll always treasure it.

How has designing dresses changed during the time you have been designing? Perhaps that question should be how ‘haven’t ‘ they changed. I think designs have actually gotten more primitive. By this I mean they have actually gone back to the earlier Celtic style. If you look at early examples of Celtic art you’ll see striking similarities to today’s designs. I’ve also noticed an evolution in the silhouettes of the dresses. These are all good things. ID is a living art form. It is not stagnant and should never be IMHO (in my humble opinion).

When do you find time to design?
I try to spend at least one day of the week working on new designs. Usually it’s on Sundays as I’ve forced myself to take at least one day a week off from sewing. If I can’t manage a full day then I spend my evenings working out new designs.

Kate's latest addition - the commercial embroidery machine.

How does your design process work? Typically my design process begins with me being inspired by the fabrics in my collection. I will often pick a color palette or a base fabric and let that be my inspiration. I will often find an element in the fabric or a shape I’ve seen in my surroundings and let that be a starting point. Once I’ve chosen that the designs seem to grow from there. I really can only design when I’ve been inspired. It is a process that can’t be forced. I have to be focused and let it flow.

How long does it take to draw a design? Length of time depends on how well formulated the design is in my head. Some designs are more intricate then others and obviously take more time to actually work up. Also, some days my hands won’t cooperate with my mind so there is a great deal of erasing and redrawing.

When do you find time to design? I try to spend at least one day of the week working on new designs. Usually it’s on Sundays as I’ve forced myself to take at least one day a week off from sewing. If I can’t manage a full day then I spend my evenings working out new designs.

Do you have a routine for designing? I never try to design in front of the TV as it is too distracting for me. I usually just put some swatches together and then think about them and what I would like to do during the course of the week. Once the weekend arrives I’ve usually formed a basic idea of what I want to do and then will sit down and work out a sketch in my sketch book. Sometimes I’ll just work it up in my computer. Usually digitizing it as I go along.

Just a little bit of fabric from Kate's fabric stash!!!

Where do you buy fabrics? I buy fabrics wherever I can find them. Being close to NYC it is easy for me to travel in to check things out. I’ve also found many suppliers who I can just phone and tell them what I want and have it shipped. When I travel with my sons for competitions I’m always on the lookout for fabric shops. You never know what you will find.

Under what circumstances do you feel you create your best designs? My best designs are created when I get to do what I want. I work best when just using a color palette or fabric choices. The least boundaries and guidelines imposed upon me the better. When I have the option of creating what I want I find my work is best. Creating for a customer is quite different then creating for myself. When creating for a customer I’m interpreting their vision. That can be somewhat constraining and frustrating because you can’t always get a clear idea of what it is they are imagining. If they are not able to articulate or even show you what they are wanting you have to struggle to figure it out. Not always an easy task. The end results of your efforts may not live up to their expectations. This is disappointing for all involved. It’s the most difficult part of my job so I give it my best not to let that happen.

What do you enjoy most about designing dresses? I love the process of seeing something I’ve imagined come to reality. The end result is always worth the time and effort it took to get there. There is no way to describe the satisfaction and pride in making a dancers dream become reality. If you have the opportunity to see the dancer in the dress well that’s a double blessing.

What or who has been your inspiration? In the beginning of my career I would say my inspiration came mostly from the dresses I saw at the competitions. I often traveled to the majors with my one son and would sit and look at all the dresses. I would study all the elements of the designs, fabrics, and colors used. Now though my inspiration has turned inward. I’ve learned to trust my instincts and allow my own creative nature to inspire me. I’m always looking at the world around me. Anything can be an inspiration if you let it. The shape of a building or the colors of a butterfly can all inspire your creativity. It’s just a matter of allowing it. I’ve never had any formal design training but I’ve not let that stop me.

Do you have any favourite designs?
The dress I’m working on at the time is always my favorite. There are a few dresses I’m extra special proud of but I would never tell.

More fabric! Is it breeding in there? Imagine the money we could save!

How many designs have you created (that have been used)?
I’ve lost count. To this day I’ve not repeated a design. Recently I’ve started making more OTR designs and even with these there are always differences. I guess that’s the creative part of my personality. I can’t seem to make the same thing twice.

Do you use computer programs to help you draw? I use a digitizing program to create my designs because I use a commercial embroidery machine to do my embroidery. I’ve found it works best this way for me to just create my designs in that program.

How do you find out what kind of designs your customer wants - how best can they relate that to you? Questions, questions and more questions. I ask lots of them. Customers who come to me prepared with pics, sketches, color palettes are a great help. These are used to give me an idea of what specific style of design they like. Pics help me get an idea of their style and how that can mesh with my own. It helps show me their wants. There is a difference between saying I want a blue dress and showing me a picture of a blue dress. The picture will show me what shade of blue. It will also show me what they mean when they say I want it to be geometric, or traditional.

Kate has provided each of the designs two colour options to help give you some ideas of what might work.

Do you have any staff?
Currently I have one employee. She handles all my business correspondence and work scheduling. If not for her, I’d have no time to sew or design. She also is a fabulous seamstress and helps me when I need. I’d love to add another seamstress to my staff but as of yet have not found anyone.

What is the one thing in your sewing room that you can’t do without? My radio. LOL! It’s what keeps me pumped up. The louder the volume the more work I get done.

Which country do you sell most designs to? I make most of my dresses for US clients. I’ve been rather low key and not put my name out there as much as others. I would welcome clients from all over the world of course.